Days Z - Portland and Beyond

Thank you to Mandy and Steve for including me on the first 1000 miles of their journey.  As with all my longer journeys reaching the end was bitter sweet. It feels great to meet your goal, but it is also weird not to be spending my days on the bike.

From Missoula I took the adventure from Bicycle to Bus.  I have always wondered what going cross country on the Greyhound would be like.  Now I can say I know.  I would say I still prefer train or plane.

Now for some reflection on my experience cycle touring, the dos and don't, and would never do again, or always do from now ons...

What I liked:

• How many miles you can cover in one day.
• The many changes of landscapes you see throughout one day.
• The roadside views you may not catch when you are whizzing by in a car.
• Having a lonely road all to yourself (when you can get it.)

What I didn't like:
Being on the road with cars. As much fun as this has been, I think the only bike touring I will do after this will be on a mountain bike through forest roads and trails. I learned to get used to it, but still don't like cars buzzing by over my left shoulder.

What I would do different:

• I would probably not wear a cycling jersey.  Despite the wonderful bronze color of my arms, I don't like lathering my body with loads of sunscreen every day. I would probably wear my extra large and air light cotton long sleeve I use for hiking.  This would keep me cool and  limit the sunscreen to my face and legs.
• I would consider using straight handlebars on the roadbike with mountain bike shifters.
• I would load more weight onto the front of the bike for an even distribution. I could do this more easily with the straight handlebars.
• I would consider making my own UL paniers. If there is one thing that bike touring could use, it would be an overhaul on the super heavy gear. Learning the ways of the lightweight backpacker pains me to see the loads that people carry on their touring bikes.
• Try to stay in more public or as the Aussies call it "rough" campgrounds.  I got tired of the RV parks.

What I would keep the same:

• I would still use my road bike and keep the 700x28 tire on the rear and the 700x25 tire on the front. 
• Use the anti puncture tape.  I was very happy to only get 4 flats in 1000 miles riding on relatively cheap, mid grade road tires.  Especially considering how much crap we rode through on the shoulders.
• Leave my stove at home. There is plenty of opportunity to get a hot meal when you are craving one.  Unless I was planning to do the more remote touring in a colder climate, there was no need for my stove and I was happy not to have the extra weight.

All in all a successful journey and a great way to round out my time away from work. Now, I believe finding a job is next on the agenda!
 

From the End of the Open Road,
Midnight Chocolate

Day 17 - Wendover CG to Missoula

We made it to Missoula! 

Today seemed short despite our 60+ miles. We got up early to make it up and over Lolo Pass in the cool weather. At the top of the pass I got a recommendation  from a local for the Lolo Brewery. 

It was 33 miles of downhill to Lolo. Looks like the brewery is fairly new. We were disappointed they didn't have food, but stayed for a few beers anyway.

With a little buzz we hopped on the busy highway headed into Missoula.  First stop in Missoula was the Adventure Cycling Association where we got our picture taken and posted on the wall and received a free ice cream for riding in. Then into a hotel to shower.  Then to the Tamarack Brewery for some real food and another beer sampling. 

Satiated and fully celebrated we walked our over stuffed bellies back to the hotel. Tonight we will finish washing and tomorrow I will work on the return journey home.

Trans Am Tally
Miles:1,004
Flats: 4
Beers: 18

From the Open Road,
Midnight Chocolate

Pictures
Lolo Pass Visitor center, also the  Montana and Idaho border
Riding downhill into Montana
Check out the door handles!
In front of the Adventure Cycling building.

Day 16 - Syringa to Wendover Campground

This morning we awoke to the smell of smoke. The wind was blowing downriver and giving us a morning dose of carbon. We were hoping that the smoke would disappear when we turned north following Hwy 12 at Lowell.

At Lowell we made a stop for a snack and to confirm we could continue on Hwy 12 with no fire problems. Looks like we are clear from here out to Missoula.

The ride from Lowell to Wendover CG was a steady climb along the Lochsa river. There were also tons of trailheads we passed.  Makes me want to come back with my backpack.

Other than being hot and beautiful the ride along the Lochsa was uneventful.

At Wensover we have a great camp spot beneath the trees.

Tomorrow we should have a 15 mile climb to Lolo pass then make our way down to my final destination of Missoula.

Trans Am Tally
Miles: 943
Flats: 4
Beers: 15

From the Open Road,
Midnight Chocolate

Pictures
The entrance to our secret beach
Trail we hauled our bikes down up
Riding into the smoke
Lowell snack stop
Iron horses hitched at a rest stop
Riding along the Lochsa River
Campsite in Wendover CG

Day 15 - White Bird to Syringa

Today we woke up early to get a cool start on our long climb out of White Bird.

A quick note on White Bird for anyone out there reading this for info on the Trans Am. White Bird is not a good resupply stop. If you do use the general store check the expiration dates on what they have. I feel like I can stretch food pretty far, but a package of sliced meat a year out of date is a bit much.

The climb out of White Bird on old hwy 95 was not nearly as bad as the profile portrays.  The car free climb was very nice. 

The decent into Grangeville was a fun winding country road. We got into Grangeville in time to have a great brunch at Oscars.

We rode out of Grangeville through rolling farm land, then hit "the decent". That was one hell of a steep and winding down hill. We stopped part way down to let our rims cool off. Serious, a couple times I worried about going over the corner, with a weighted bike the brakes don't stop you too fast on a hill like that.

We resupplied in Kooskia and headed for our campground.  We stopped into a restaurant/bar/tour company to ask if they had info on the fires.  Turns out they did, and the forest campground we were planning to stay at was closed.

Plan B, sit at the bar, get a beer, and look for an alternative for the night. The bar tender was helpful in giving us a suggestion that was not as far as our original campground, but outside the limits of the restricted fire areas.

We rode out of Syringna with a new plan. However this plan was also foiled.  Turns out there was already someone in the camp spot. Despite the spots size, the guy camping there didn't seem too keen on sharing it. So we rode on to find another one.

We ended up finding a fisherman's trail off a small pullout. This lead down to a rocky trail, then to a sandy spot. Getting the bikes and all our gear down the steep bank was entertaining, but not too bad. It has been a pleasant evening swimming in the river and lounging riverside on our private beach.

Trans Am Tally
Miles: 877
Flats: 4
Beers: 15
Live snakes: 3

From the Open Road,
Midnight Chocolate

Pictures:
Getting ready to go in the morning
Looking back over our road midway up White Bird Hill
Sunflower lined ride up old hwy 95
This girl is taking her dog coast to coast. No way!
Bikes lined up outside Oscars fine dinning
Grocery store, Music store, they have it all in Stites
Clearwater River
Fire sheet, no camping at Wild Goose
Syringa beer and replanning stop
Bikes on our private beach
River views from our camp
Steve hauling down one of their bikes.

Day 14 - Riggins to White Bird

This morning we once again rolled out of camp an hour later than planned. I tell ya, these Aussies and their coffee.

Today we took a sort of easy day. We had a 30 mile rolling downhill into White Bird. The whole ride was along the Salmon River.

White Bird appears to be somewhat of a dying town. I have a feeling once Hwy 95 was re routed up and over and you no longer had to drive through it, that may have decreased the business.

Tonight we are staying at the BLM Hammer Creek campground on the Salmon River. We hear we are supposed to expect rafters to be here later this evening.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to find a WiFi or have goid service to be able to publish the last few days of blogging.

Trans Am Tally
Miles: 813
Flats: 4
Beers: 14

From the Open Road,
Midnight Chocolate

Pictures
Floor pump tent prop
Ride along the Salmon River
Ride along the Salmon River
Lunch at Machs in White Bird
Camping at Hammer Creek
Camping at Hammer Creek
Evening wine by the river

Day 13 - Cambridge to Riggins

Today we hit another 80+ mile day.

When we left the Mundo hot springs we tore out of there to avoid too many mosquitoe bites.

Today's ride was pretty, but the highway it self was the worst yet.  We rode through 35 to 40 miles of milled pavement related to road construction.  This sucks on skinny tires.  The amount of traffic,  especially truck traffic has also dramatically increased on Hwy 95.

Coming down the mountains along the Little Salmon River was supposed to be a very nice long downhill. The first few miles were great, but once we came into the canyon we hit a horrible headwind. This turns an easy going downhill into a pedaling slog.

The town of Riggins is very touristy,  but has little good camping. We ended up in another RV park. As much as I like the amenities, like showers, I am getting tired of the RV parks.

Trans Am Tally
Miles: 783
Flats: 4
Road Kill: losing track
Beers: 13

From the Open Road
Midnight Chocolate

Pictures:
Coffee stop in Mesa
Bathroom stop at gas station
Bike maintenance at Evergreen Campground
Crossing the 45th parallel
Roadside waterfall
Road winding along the Little Salmon River
Riverside camping at the RV park

Day 11 - Baker City to Halfway

Today we took full advantage of the soft beds and the continental breakfast.  We didn't leave the hotel until 9:30 this morning.

Before leaving Baker City we stopped at the bike shop for some chamoise butter and tubes. Then hit Safeway for some lunch groceries.  In the distance we saw some ominous looking clouds and the power outage at Safeway gave us more concerns. However looking in the direction we were headed the clouds only looked like possible rain.

The big event for the day was the snake sighting.  I was riding in front driving into the headwind.  I looked up just in time to see a snake in the road.  For those that know, these are my least favorite creatures. I issued some well known expletives and began to swerve. The problem was compound by a passing car. A big swerve was not a good option.  I slammed on the brakes to avoid rolling over it and caused a 3 bike pileup. There were a few scrapes, but all survived.

The most beautiful part of the day (also the hardest) was the climb out of Richland.  The green green valley contrasted against  the brown sagebrush was wonderful.  Of course I don't have a picture because I didn't want to have to restart on the 7% grade!

Tonight we are camped at a rough RV park in Halfway.  They have showers! I think I have my tent situation figured out for the time being too. All good in Halfway. 

Trans Am Tally
Miles: 635
Flats: 4
Roadkill: 4 snakes, 2 frogs, 8 deer, 3 coyote
Snakes: 2
Beers: 11

From the Open Road,
Midnight Chocolate

Pictures:
Waiting for the bike store to open in Baker City
Met our fellow bike tourers at Safeway (check out how much they carry)
Heading into the clouds
Powder River in the canyon
Lunch stop under one of the few trees around
Break in Richland before the big climb of the day
View from the pass summit
Mandy and Steve rounding out the big climb.